Whine & Cheese

Italy Trip: Rome Random Thoughts II

I didn't forget that my random Rome ramblings were not done, so here's some more:

Particularly on a first trip to Rome, I would definitely recommend getting a Roma Pass.  I think it cost 25 Euros (each person needs their own card) which gives you, over the course of 3 days, two entries into participating museum or archeological sites (discounted admissions beyond those two) and all public transportation.  We earned our money back with entry to the Colosseum (12 Euros?) and later the Baths of Caracalla (6 Euros), plus more than a handful of subway rides (2 Euros a pop?).   It would have been worth the price of the entire cost of the card alone, just as we were able to use the special/designated Roma Pass line at the Colosseum... which we pretty much walked right into, passed hundreds of people queued up and I'm guessing at least an hour's wait.  The hard part was finding where they sold the passes.  We heard they were on-sale at the Termini train station (where we came into Rome), so we were looking for a Roma Pass kiosk, but it ended up just being sold at an ordinary newsstand.  Also, it was great being able to just hop on and off the subway.  We did A LOT of walking in Rome (and Italy in general), so it was hitch a ride whenever we could...

Speaking of the subway, it is a not a very extensive system (I imagine it is a archeological nightmare digging anywhere in Rome!)... or confusing... just two lines, crossing at Termini, which good for us was right near out hotel.  But a lot of the major sites are at subway stops... Colosseum, Spanish Steps (Trevi is nearby), and the Vatican.  But as with most subway systems, it is very well utilized, I think we only were able to sit down one or two times.  

The craziest place we visited on our entire Italy trip?!  The Vatican.  Before our trip, my friend Jen had warned me that the Vatican was ironically the worst area for pickpockets... for us, unless we are missing something we haven't realized yet, it was the craziest place just for the masses of tourists that were loud and somewhat pushy.  While the long line moved fairly quickly to get into St. Peter's Basilica, it was still crazy... and my enjoyment of the famed Vatican Museum was seriously inhibited by the crowds as at times it felt like we were being herded through it like cattle (and we were there mid-/late afternoon which allegedly to our guide book said was the better time to go).  The capper was being all corralled into the highlight of the Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel.  There were so many people in there that it was really hard to move without much elbow room.  There was supposed to be respectful silence in the chapel, but that was hard to accomplish with the rumble of thousands (??) of people and then above the guards having to yell over that rumble to "keep moving" or "no photo!" ... occasionally interspersing loudly "ssshhh!!" shushing.  Again crazy, but a bit comical as well.   That said, still a recommended/necessary stop while in Rome... and I would definitely recommend this be one of the place where you get an advanced ticket.  We did and once again, were able to skip a pretty long line for same-day entry and they have it set-up to deal with even longer lines than what we saw.  BTW, there is no entry fee for St. Peter's Basilica (just to climb the dome or go to the crypts and maybe some other stuff that we didn't have time for... next time!), the Museum cost about 14 Euro (+ service charges if you order online beforehand, but again well worth the shorter wait time).

The strangest thing we saw in Rome (and probably our entire Italy trip) was not something we particularly set out to look for... but while in Piazza Navona (which is a must see) was going inside Sant' Agnese in Agone church... back in the sacristy (the "sacra testa" according to the guidebook) is "chimpanzee sized skull of St. Agnes, martyred here in the 4th century."  It was really odd and personally I find it hard to believe it human skull as it could easily fit in the palm of one's hand ... or do skulls shrink?  Anyhow, very odd ... very Ripley's Believe It or Not (maybe I'll get pummeled by a lighting strike, but I am more the latter).

Finally, had a pretty cool Italy experience thanks to this very blog. Shortly before I left, I wrote up a blog entry for Paula Butturini's memoir that I read largely because it took place in Rome (though that was not the point of it, neither a travelogue or a "life in Rome" book)... and while we were at the Philly airport waiting for our flight to Venice, I checked my email and there was a comment left on that post by... Paula Butturini!  I kind of write this blog in a void, knowing it'll be read by some of my regulars and perhaps a "drive-by," so it is always a bit embarrassing to hear from the person your post is about!  While I knew I was complimentary of the book, I still worried about what I wrote and while there was cringe-y thing here and there, overall it was not too bad.  Anyhow, Paula recommended a gelato shop Trastevere, one of the neighborhoods she lived in while in Rome.  We did find it (it kind of felt like an Amazing Race challenge), but unfortunately it was closed for renovations.  After we got back, I did email her back to thank her for her comment and tell her of our attempt to find the shop and she very kindly (and quickly) replied back to that email.  So a very cool moment that would have never happened if not for this blog... 

and that's probably a good way to end this random Rome ramblings, unless I get some crazy brainstorm (probably as soon as I hit upload, I'll think of something else), but if you have any specific questions or asking about a particular place, I'd be happy to respond!  Grazie, ciao!

Italy Trip: Rome Random Thoughts

Well, it just doesn't seem right that I posted fairly rambling babbling detailed daily accounts of our visits to Venice and Florence and pretty much felt like I ran out of gas by the time I had the time to get to Rome.  So, now that I have some time (a window that may stay open), I figured I'd at least share some of our experiences.  Just will make it bit more informal and random, then my day-to-day accounts.

First off, a quick rundown of all we did. Warning: it was fairly ambitious/lots of walking... so if you like to take things more leisurely, you'll definitely need more time... especially since I don't include all the stops for gelato and walking into random, but consistently jaw-droppping, churches:

Day 1:  Arrival by train, lunch near Repubblica, walked down to Vittoriano monument... ruins of Ancient Rome and Colosseum (my urge to see something that immediately says "We're here!")

Day 2:  Toured Colosseum, Palantine Hill, and Roman Forum.  Walked over to Trastevere in search of recommended gelato shop over to Campo de Fiori, Piazza Novona, Pantheon.

Day 3: Piazza del Popolo, Pincio steps overlooking Rome, walk along the Tiber, across the Tiber at Ponte Sant'Angelo... Vatican City (St. Peter's Square and Basilica, Vatican Museum incl. the Sistine Chapel).

Day 4: Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla (ruins), Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, nighttime visit back to Colosseum and Ancient Rome

If I needed a sign that "Toto, we're not in Florence or Venice anymore" that first lunch was a very good indication.  It was clear that Rome was already much bigger and brash than our previous two destinations, a true major city of the world!  When we grabbing our outdoor seats, the waiter said something to us that I didn't understand... a bit lagging from our trip from Florence earlier in the morning and a tad overwhelmed by it all... I thought he was asking for drinks, so I did the "hand to mouth" drink? gesture... which was incredibly stupid/naive of me, because in Italy they will never ask you about food and drink that early.  Anyhow, the waiter brings over a drink menu... and when we say we're interested in food/lunch, he gets pretty ticked citing my "drink?" gesture... and rightfully so.  It all went fine after that, but again a rough start and forgetting we were not in America, where dining is pretty much a timed event.

To get the negative out of the way, a day or so later we had what I think was truly our only tourist trap of entire trip, or at least the most obvious one.  Though first it started when we went to a restaurant that was recommended by our guide book as a local favorite, and when we arrived there it very much looked true... so when we asked for a table, they asked if we had reservations and then told us it would be a 45 minute-1 hour wait, kind of surprising given the number of empty tables.  Granted it could very well have been true, but I suspect this was more of a tourist deterrence measure.  So we ended up at a cafe just up the corner from our hotel.  The waiter kind of had this bumbling with tourists attitude from the start, so when I ordered the ricotta and spinach ravioli I even made the effort of pointing it out on the menu.  When our order arrived, Todd go what he order (pasta and a caprese salad I think) and I got my ravioli... along with a parmesan and arugula salad.  I told him I didn't order that, so he took it back. But promptly came back saying I had ordered it, showing me his note pad. I still made a bit of a fuss, then a very stern woman owner/waitress came over and explained the situation to her, but again she inferred it was my mistake and siding with what was on the waiter's notepad.  Not terribly comfortable with situation, we just dropped it and were charged the 12 Euros for the salad.  So while I felt we were rooked, it was not until I came home and looked up the place on Trip Advisor to see many tales of being misled/taken advantage of.  So definitely a tourist scam place... which reminds me I should add my tale to it, though it is definitely  drop-in/"this looks good" place, not one of the places you'll look up prior to a trip, so not sure it will help others from falling victim as well... but maybe do a review for our hotel and mention it there, since I am sure many of the hotel guests may do the same thing we did.

Okay, that's enough rambling for one post... to be continued (I hope!) and absolutely less negative, now that those two stories are out of the way!

Italy Trip Day 6.5/7: Wrapping Up Florence

Well, here we are almost two weeks since my last Italy post... and my last blog post period!  It's not that I have not wanted to continue writing about our Italy adventures, but work has really taken over all my time.. so no time to blog and even when I am wrapped with work, don't have the mental capacity to write or sit in front on the computer (play on my iPhone, well that's another thing... have to stay connected somehow!).

Anyhow, I will wrap up our final night in Florence here and say I am not sure if or optimistically when I will get around to our last stop of the trip, 4 days in Rome.  I just feel that I have lost so much momentum on these posts... and probably need to freshen things up with book posts (have finished 4 book since my last book post!) or just some other kind of my normal minutia!

So picking up where we left off, we were still in the midst of our 24 hours of great Italian food.  It started at Francescovini with a wonderful dinner after sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo and overall a particularly physical day... continued with lunch at the Central Market's Nerbone with heavenly boiled beef (now there's a phrase you don't see every day) sandwiches... and then we just decided to pick a restaurant out of our guide book and decided upon Le Fonticine described in our guide book as "Silvano Bruci's trattoria is the place to go for Italian soul food, based on his wife's Bolognese family recipes." 

We thought we were doing well, holding off on dinner until nearly 8pm.  While checking out the menu on the window, there was a guy waiting in the door... he seemed like he was waiting for someone, but after we decided to go for it, it ended up being what we would later guess was the son of the owner ... and oddly in communication he seemed to morph between American, French, and Italian.... though if related to the owners, he was obviously Italian ... we did see an older gentleman during our meal, who almost certainly was Silvano.

Anyhow, this guy brought us to a really cool back room of the restaurant... and walking through the kitchen, which was kind of funny since it reminded me of the Italian chain restaurant here, Bucca di Beppo which makes such a fuss to walk you "through" the kitchen before seating you... here it was certainly not a gimmick!   Anyhow, as we were walking through we realized we were the first people in the restaurant... which was kind of embarrassing but funny since we thought we were doing so well holding off to a later time.  Fortunately, it did start filling up very shortly thereafter.

Anyhow, the meal was wonderful and I made sure I hit all things Italian that were on the menu... so we opened with bruschetta, ordered a bottle of wine... and I had some kind of pasta as my first dish and a herbed grilled chicken (fresh herbs!) as my second dish.  It still amazes how different in Italy is and that pasta is considered the start of the meal and not the "be all, end all"... but the difference is the portion sizes are respectable that you can have an enjoyable meal spread out over the course of a couple of hours (again, something Europeans do right!). I finished up with a cappuccino and tiramisu.  Can't get more Italian than that!

One of our lasting memories was observing another table of two older couples from America.  It's really no wonder America gets the reputation that we do!  First, they were hashing over what wine to order... there was this big discussion of who preferred red or white... that continued on when the waiter arrived. These waiters were old skool older guys too, who had clearly been doing this job for decades... and while these folks couldn't make up their minds, the waiter just wrapped it all up saying he would bring one bottle each of the red and white house wine.  The couples seemed baffled by the decision that just had been made on their behalf, but it was pretty amusing... and one thing we learned on this trip was to never hesitate to get the house wine (though we didn't at this place).

The best thing was when the salads were ordered (or arrived?) and one of the women asked if they had a "creamy Italian" dressing... the waiter appeared a bit nonplussed... I think "Italian" dressing is a hard concept for them to understand, let alone a "creamy" version of it.  With that discussion off the table, she then asked if she could have the dressing "on the side"... another head-slap!  What we had learned with our own meal and what occurred there, was that salads were simply drizzled with oil and vinegar by the waiter at a central table... I think the waiter ended up bringing her the bottles of each, but again... it's really no wonder Americans get the eye-rolls when away from home.

Although there were a few exceptions, we ended up kind of thinking that this back room was where they put the tourists as the room largely ended being English or Asian speaking diners... and on the way out the front room seemed quite Italian.  Really quite amusing, but I can't say I blame 'em!

With a midday train to Rome the next day, we headed back wound our way slowly back to the hotel via the Duomo... and the next day didn't do all that much except make sure to use our remaining gelato festival tickets and I even popped into an bookstore... so much fun to try and figure out titles and see the covers of American novelists in Italian.

Again, the whole train situation was a breeze... we got to the station about an hour early, but again I think we could have arrived their 10 minutes before, climbed aboard and been on our way to Rome... again it is such an efficient, seemingly on-time and certainly no stress situation.

Okay, that finally ends Florence... again, no promises on Rome stories... but if you check out my Rome Flickr photo gallery (which, as of this writing, is still in-progress but almost done) you'll get some stories there and see that we did and saw pretty much hit all the expected spots!   

Italy Trip Day 6: Florence

Well, I thought for sure I would be well wrapped up on all these Italy vacation posts by now, but have really been pummeled with work in the last week and half.  I would guess this was perhaps the busiest I had been work-wise in well over a year, so while it is frustrating to have lost momentum on these posts (as well as my picture posting), I have to say it is a good thing to be busy with work ... as that is what makes these kind of trips possible!

So, Day 6 of our trip was our second and last full day in Florence.  We had contemplated taking a Tuscany side trip during our stay in Florence.  Originally we were thinking Pisa but had switched to Bologna on the solid advice of my friend Jen... but alas, our time seemed so short in Florence and with a scheduled time to visit the Accademia Gallery to see Michelangelo's David in the afternoon... and really loving the city, there was no reason for us to leave Florence.  Next time!

This is perhaps the hardest day for me to have had to recreate in my head as there were so few pictures of it.  I had done a good job of photographing most of the city in the first day and half, that I think I shot less than a dozen shots the entire day... and given I shot close to 1,000 over the course of the entire vacation, you can see how strange a day this way.  But I have to remind myself sometimes, that I need to "see"... experience!... these places for myself and not soley through a camera lens.

After yet another high-carb, protein challenged breakfast we walked over to the Palazzo Pitti.  A Medici palace, but now of course a museum!  Knowing we really didn't have time to do the museum, I thought we'd at least get to walk around it and check out another panoramic view of the city, but alas that did not happen.  The gardens were closed, so I don't know if that is what would have provided us "free" access but again just didn't happen.  Would probably go inside... next time!   And ditto, I guess for the Uffuzi... if you haven't figure it out, museums tend not to be high on my to-do list.

We walked back towards the duomo and picked up our tickets for the weekend gelato festival.  I have kind of lost track what I have and have not mentioned... but Italy is just gelato crazy.  I really don't know how all the shops survive, but given the number of folks eating it maybe it is not such a stretch (just wonder what happens when it's cold and/or rainy?).   Anyhow, we each got a combo ticket that allowed us 6 gelato tastings for 4 Euros, not a bad deal... though I thought there would be more sampling booths all around the city than there were, but we did just fine at the booths around the centrally located duomo.

So while the gelato samples contributed to the best 24 hours of food we had on our vacation, it was really dinner the previous night and then a trip over to the Mercato Centrale for lunch.  It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out this was the Central Market and just a great collection of stalls (indoors) with every type of meat, fish, vegetable, etc. you can imagine... and definitely a (pardon the pun) taste of local life, though certainly there were plenty of foodie-gift type shops trying to lure tourists as well.

Our primary reason to go there was to go to Nerbone for bagnato, a boiled beef sandwich.  It was kind of intimidating... just a walk-up counter that had the bustle and attitude of a NYC deli.. you needed to know what you wanted and move right along from some very serious old school Italian guys. Fortunately, "beef sandwich" is universal and we were on our way to wait for it to be prepared right before our eyes.  I opted to get both the green (pesto-y) and spicy red sauce... and let me tell you, it was a little bit of heaven.   It may not have looked like anything special .. but a perfect roll to soak up all the juices , tender beef that just melted in your mouth with a nice kick from the flavorful sauces... and 2 sandwiches for under 10 Euros, which likely made it probably the most inexpensive meal of the entire trip.  It's only too bad that we "found" it (another Jen recommendation, plus highlighted in our guide book) a bit late as we would have likely had it everyday for lunch... or we even joked that we would have gone back the same day for dinner!

Then it was off to the Accademia Gallery to see David.  While I didn't seem like the same-day, walk-up ticket line was too bad, it did save some time to buy the tickets in advance via the Internet and we walked right in just before our assigned time.  It is in fact a "gallery" vs. a museum, so not a whole lot there... but what is there is pretty amazing, The Rape of the Sabine Woman, Michelangelo's unfinished Slaves... and then, David.  Now we had seen plenty of David recreations in Florence... and certainly seen the Vegas versions of it, but let me say the original was simply stunning! 

Now, photography was not allowed inside the gallery... I knew that going in... and they have many staff members around the David statue to prevent the photos... though in our short visit, there were a handful of folks who got a couple of photos off with either their phone or small camera.  While I was usually respectful of the "no photography" rules in places, I just had to try and get something... so I snuck behind a pillar and managed to get this shot off with my iPhone:

Not bad, huh?!! I felt a little guilty, but got over it.

Okay, given how long it took me just to get this entry out I think I will stop it here and do the dinner wrap-up (another good one) and our farewell to Florence in the next post (but can't/won't promise when that'll be)!

Italy Trip Day 5: Florence Part II

Apologies that Part II of the Day 5 has taken so long to post... unfortunately the reality of work came crashing down, making me only wish I was back in Florence and having a day like this!

Anyhow, when I last left you, we were enjoying a peaceful late afternoon in front of San Miniato church high above Florence waiting for the sun to set.  I mentioned that I have tried to have these quiet moments during our trips, which go against my genetic make-up, but after a couple of hours and still no sunset, I was getting a bit restless so decided we should walk back down to Piazzale Michelangelo...

... and as mentioned in the previous post, it was a lot more people down there... but there was definitely a buzz as folks gathered on the steps to take in the Florence sunset.

And these folks came prepared! People were munching on sandwiches and crackers and cheese... and there was plenty of wine flowing too!  So a good, fun atmosphere... until I started to get a little crabby as it many, many hours from our 10 Euro lunch and our long-ish hike to the piazzale... and it got even more annoying when this group right in back of us were cooing of how good all their food was!  I almost felt like turning around and asking if they'd like to share!  

By the time the sunset, I was ready to get out of there... and while I think there is no such thing as a bad sunset, this one didn't quite have "the moment" due to some low clouds that didn't get those good sun streaks. 

As we walked back into town, we passed many hopping bars and restaurants that looked to be mostly locals, but they were so jammed and a bit intimidating to think of making our way in.  I was pretty hungry, but really didn't want to do the "tourist menu" thing again... and fortunately, just in the nick of time, we found this small outdoor cafe (maybe 8 tables, with 1 open table) that looked like the vibe I was going for... as we checked out the menu, still a bit unsure... an American guy yelled out to us that this was his first night in Florence and that we should absolutely come in that the food and wine were great.  Later I kind of figured out he was there on business and some other Americans who work in Italy had brought him there.  Any kind of positive reinforcement was all I needed at that point... so we scooped up the last table... and had our best meal of our entire Italy trip and the start of what was the best 24 hour of food.

I had some kind of ravioli with a side spinach salad... we also had some fried pasta dough to start (forget what it's real name was)... and Todd has some incredible steak and a caprese salad... and we could not turn down 9 Euros for a litre of house wine (we figured that's about 1.25 of a bottle), which was as good as any wine we had during the entire trip... and an amount of vino, we would learn was enough to make us very happy.

Fortunately, we got a business card with our check, otherwise I would have never even known the name of the restaurant!  So while I don't know if it was just the right time/right place, lightning strike but, if you find yourself in Florence, I would certainly recommend Francescovini (now that's Italian) on a nice pedestrian only street, Borgo de Greci, between Piazza Santa Croce and Piazza della Signoria/Palazzo Vecchi (closer to Santa Croce).

On our way back, we had yet another surprise as there was this light projection show going on in the Piazza della Signoria.  It made me very happy (well, okay the half litre of wine was making me very happy), and I exclaimed it was "Just like Vegas!"

I don't if this is a regularly scheduled thing or what, but we went on the next night (this was on a Thursday night) at around the same time and nothing was going on like this, so who knows... but it was a happy accident and I am glad we stumbled onto it.

But an end to a really terrific day and one had started to slip/be threatened by some punchiness (hunger / tiredness) on my part, but it saved in spectacular fashion... wine is good!

Italy Trip Day 5: Florence

Onto our first full day in Florence, I can honestly say that at the start I am not sure if I intended it be a marathon day, but that's what it ended being.  I remembered that at the time (I'll admit to getting a bit punchy at one point), and I certainly remember it now as it has taken me days just to get through uploading pictures to Flickr from this day.

Our first planned stop of the day was Santa Croce.  In our day-by-day guidebook, it listed a trip to Santa Croce as something to do on Day 3, but when you are talking about a visit to the final resting places of the likes of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machievelli, and Dante Alighieri (though his tomb area was being restored)... well, you think it would be higher on the priority list, but I guess that's really saying something about Florence! Anyhow, with a line-up like that it is no surprise that Santa Croce is called the Westminster Abbey of Italy.  Now, it's not as big or impressive as Westminster (tho that's relative as every church we went into in Italy was impressive), but also it is also not as crowded and certainly easy to find all the major players. 

OK, detour time... if you enter a church, you will inevitably fine beggar woman seemingly in the midst of an emotional breakdown asking for money.  I have grown to be very good at ignoring them, avoiding eye contact and not feeling the least bit guilty.  While I've been doing that all my life (back to being a kid and visiting NYC when Times Square was filled with porn shops), my indifference all was confirmed in Venice when I watched a beggar woman reposition herself outside a Venice church and turn on the fake tears and soft wailing like a light switch.  The only time I caved was in Rome, when the woman actually opened the doors for us.

We made our way back to the Piazza della Signoria and it was kind of around lunch time.  But one thing you'll read in the guidebooks is not to eat at high traffic tourist areas (high prices) and avoid "tourist menus" (not good food).  But after a bunch of $40 lunches (that's US) and double that on dinners (if we were lucky!), it was hard not to pass up a 10 Euro ($13-ish) "tourist menu" combo of a pizza (or pasta), drink (which could be beer or wine), and coffee beverage (or gelato).  In the end, it all worked out great and since you are never ever rushed out of a restaurant in Europe, we were able to enjoy a nice afternoon lunch and this view:

With something in our stomachs, we next decided to tackle the duomo and climb to the top.  I had read that there was rarely a line/wait to climb the 463 steps... and there wasn't any as we passed by on our way to Santa Croce, but sure enough we had about a half-hour wait.  One thing I've learned in climbing up to all these domes is a deep respect for how these things ever got built without modern technology... or if they were built today how much money it would cost.  It is really quite staggering... and sometimes quite literally!  But the trip to the "cupola" was definitely worth the physical exertion for some amazing views of Florence and Tuscany... though there was a bit of a jam near the top as there was only one-way up and down as there kind of needed to be a traffic cop at the top to let one direction go, then the other. 

After climbing back down, we went into the duomo for the first time... though oddly enough, while the stairs led us back down to the church we had to exit and re-enter, which was fine as there was no charge for entry to the duomo (officially called Santa Maria del Fiore), the climb up I think cost 6 Euros per person.  But again, just massive and impressive... as one would expect for what is still the 4th largest cathedral in the world.  While Brunelleschi's dome is an architectural wonder, the artwork that was needed to fill all that space was also quite incredible and looking good (guessing a restoration wasn't too long ago):

After that we headed right across the piazza to the Battistero San Giovanni, which pre-dates even the duomo (we're talking 11th/12th-century), where all Florentine Catholics were baptized through the 19th including its more famous residents like Dante. This cost 3 Euros per person for what was maybe a 15 minute visit, but again an extremely impressive ceiling.

Next, it was back to the hotel for some rest before gearing up for a long walk across the Arno River and up to the Piazzale Michelangelo for a panoramic view of Florence.  In retrospect, it was probably not smart to do the duomo climb and then add a 2 mile way (each way and including a some altitude!) at the end of the day.  But we only had one more full day in Florence and had an afternoon appointment to see David, so what the heck, right?

On the way, we walked along the Arno to the Ponte Vecchio where we made the cross-over then it was up some pretty steep steps to the Piazzale.  As a combo bribe and thank you, I immediately bought Todd (and myself, of course!) some gelato as it was a bit warm too.  But the view, as seen in many guide books, was pretty cool.  The area was very touristy with a lot of folks and tourist buses and vendors of all kind, but to be expected. 

The intention had been to stay for sunset, but it was still hours off even at 5pm-ish... the sun set maybe around 9pm and it certainly stayed light out beyond even that.  So we climbed up further to San Miniato al Monte, according to our guide book, one of Florence's oldest places (construction began in 1018!) and they said "most spiritual" and that was certainly the case as we accidentally stumbled onto the Benedictine monks celebrating Vespers (evening prayer) with Gregorian chant.  Now, I lost my religion a long, long time ago... but it still gives me goosebumps to think of walking through that darkened (and mostly empty) church with the peaceful chanting bouncing off the marble walls.

We spent a few hours just sitting and hanging out in front of the church and enjoying this view:

Being the proverbial "Energizer Bunny" on these vacations, I've been trying to be better about just taking some time to sit down, breathe, and enjoy the place we're at... and our afternoon/evening up here, not doing much of anything (well, a diversion of a very cute guy, perhaps Australian was quite entertaining) will be one of the things I remember most from not only our stay in Florence, but our entire Italy trip.

Hmmm, that seems like a good place to stop... there is still a bit more from this very busy day, but let's just put it as "to be continued..." for now.

Italy Trip: Day 4 Venice to Florence

When I last left these Italy vacation posts, I was saying that it seems like you just kind of hit your stride with a new city on Day 3.  All the tourist-y stuff is typically out the way (or at least those things that you prioritized... i.e. going inside the Louvre and out to Sacre Couer are on the to-do list for the second/next trip to Paris!) and you can just soak it in. 

So while I will not say we were happy to be leaving Venice, I'll admit to just a tad bit of itchiness to move onto our next stop, Florence, where a whole brand-spanking new to-do list awaited us!

On our last morning in Venice, we just took had one last free hotel breakfast and made the 5-minute walk over to the Rialto Bridge to bid our farewell to what had been our touchstone in Venice... i.e., once we reached the Rialto we knew exactly where we were and how long it would take to get back to our hotel.

As you may recall, we arrived to Venice via a Alilaguna water bus from the airport to a drop-off point... and then proceeded to lug around our six bags across many canals and past many amused tourists for about an hour... believe me that we had empathetic smiles on our faces as witnessed the frustration and fatigue of the new arrivals.  Before getting there, I had figured we might just take a vaporetto (aka water bus) from the Rialto to the train station on the east end of Venice.  However, it did not take long to figure out fighting the crowds both on the "streets" and the jammed-pack vaporettos would not be much fun.  So we decided to just bite the bullet and take a private water taxi.

The cost was a flat-rate of 70 Euros from our hotel to the station, which "as the crow flies" would have been maybe a 4 miles journey... which seems a bit crazy for about $US 90, but walking it would have been insane beyond any measure... and really I was just selectively frugal... sure spend a few grand on a vacation, but quibble about $90?!! Ha!

Anyhow long story short... it was totally worth it and we certainly did not regret the dock-to-dock service and our own private ride down part of the Grand Canal.  I only wish the 10-15 minute ride was longer!  Truly a grand way to end our visit to Venice.

One thing I would highly recommend if you are traveling within Europe is to take the train... it is the most relaxing and civilized way to travel and will only make you hate airports more.  You can arrive maybe about a half-hour before your departure time, get on the train, and the darn thing leaves on time.  In this 'new' world, I am not sure how all these train stations work without any obvious security measures, but whatever they are doing (or not doing) it is certainly a pleasure (as long as you don't have any obnoxious Americans around... geez, it doesn't take too much observation to see why this country has the reputation it has when visiting other countries).

So 2.5 hours later we arrive at Stazione Centrale Santa Maria Novella in Firenze!  (Side note: why is the Anglo-ization of city names needed... is it that much of a hardship to refer to Florence as Firenze or Rome as Roma?!)... and we are once again introduced to vehicles and other objects that move on wheels!  It is really quite something how Venice lulls you in with only boat traffic... thanks to all the steps and bridges, I am pretty sure we never even saw a bicycle in Venice!   So all the traffic was quite jolting, especially since we had to navigate a traffic circle on our 10 minute walk to our hotel, Grand Hotel Minerva, conveniently located in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella and on the eastern edge of the major tourist points in Venice.  Knowing they had a rooftop terrace, after dropping our bags we went up to the 5th-ish floor (floors are very strange in Europe with the 1/2 floors and going up and down to get to a floor) to take in this view of Florence:

Quite lovely... you would have guessed we would have spent a lot of time enjoying this view, but we were so busy in our 3 days we never made it back up there after this initial visit.

Next, we decided to explore.  I have to admit when I get to a new city, I want to see something... and like, NOW!  But as Todd would tell you, something often turns into a lot of things... and I would reply that some of that is unintentional, though I know once I get started it is hard to stop me!

Sooooo....  we kinda sorta saw pretty much everything Florence is famous for in that very first afternoon/evening -- the duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, the statues of Palazzo della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi museum (the outside, that is... inside, next trip!).   I will defend myself and say that it was not in detail and that all these places/things were quite close together that I don't think I ran us too ragged (that would be the next day or so), but I definitely got the sense that Florence was going to be quite manageable, whereas I was a bit surprised how big Venice was... not that it was BIG, but a bit more sprawl than what I had expected (and we didn't even hit all the neighborhood!).

We ended the day with a beautiful Tuscan sunset over the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio...

I immediately liked the vibe of Florence, it had a good buzz to it, but not too much... we got our bearings this first afternoon/evening and knew there was plenty to see and just two full days to do it...

Italy Trip: Venice Day 3

It seems like by Day 3 you start to hit your stride with a new city.  By that point, you have probably seen the major tourist-y things and know you way around, though in Venice that's kind of "on a curve," though I dare say I found Rome to be just as (if not more!) challenging to navigate.  The unfortunate news, at least on this trip, is that Day 3 was usually our last full day in each city.

So while there certainly was nothing left to do in Venice, on this day we were comfortable with what we did to just kick it back a bit... not that this didn't result in yet another 5-6 miles of walking by the time the day was done.

The first thing we did was hit the Rialto market, an bustling collection of produce stands and also the fish market.  It was great to see all this food, fresh from the land and sea.  While it definitely had a local flair, it was just as challenging navigating around the tourists too.  I am guessing in these major Italian cities that tourism is the proverbial blessing and a curse.  Obviously, it brings a lot of money into a city... but I am sure the locals would just rather go about their business without people taking photographs of pears and squid (guilty!)

Most of the pictures I have been sharing have been ones I've been posting on Flickr, but her is a W&C exclusive... since I don't want Mom to know my eyes were on something other than zucchini!

I think Yum-O! sums that up in any language!

After the Rialto market, we walked around and checked out Santa Maria dei Miracoli before reaching our original landing point of Fondamente Nove to catch a boat over to Murano.  Murano is a quaint little version of Venice - fewer islands, fewer canals, fewer tourists!  It is where most of the the famous Venetian glass is made, taken away/off Venice due to fire danger.  We didn't do a whole lot other than walk around and get a quite reasonably priced sandwich lunch (anytime you could eat for two at around 10 Euro ($US 13-ish) was a downright bargain!), but it was nice to get away from crowds and claustrophobia of Venice.

it was always fun trying to find a place in all these Italian cities as it kind of felt like we were on Amazing Race.  So with the afternoon free, I wanted to find this bar that Jen had recommended that was said to be both reasonably priced and a slice of local Venetian life (those two things highly correlated - the challenge is to find it!)... and Al Prosecco on Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio was, as one Italian waiter said when I gave him exact change... perfecto!   We indulged in a glass of prosecco (fo course!) and sat at the outdoor cafe as local kids kicked a soccer ball around and even celebrated a birthday (quite humorously singing it in English).. and enjoyed two little dogs from the next restaurant over defending their turf!

Not feeling quite ready to leave and seeing others ordering it, we had another trip... an aperol spritz!  I had seen all these orange-y cocktails being consumed all over the place and the previous day I had asked a waiter what it was and ordered it up.  Aperol is an apertif, quite similar to Campari... the spritz is made with sparkling white wine or white wine and soda... and made either bitter or "dry" by adding Campari... or sweet by adding Aperol (though I still find it to be a bit bitter).  In Rome, I would have a "perfect" spritz that allegedly had both Campari and Aperol. 

But however they were made, they were wonderful, so much so that I have already picked up a bottle of Aperol at our local BevMo!, though I wish I bought it in Italy... we saw a place that was selling a bottle for about 7 Euros ($US 9-ish) and here it cost $23!  But regardless, I am still glad that we found it at all and it's worth being able to pour a little memory of Italy.

Okay, next entry we leave Venice and it's off to Firenze... Florence!

Italy Trip: Venice Day 2

We had not made any plans/reservations during our Venice leg of the trip.  We had attempted to book the "Secret Itinerary" tour of the Doge's Palace but it was all booked up.  We started the day with the hotel's free breakfast.  Since we did this as part of a package, I am not sure if the "breakfast included" was an additional charge but all of our hotels in the trip had a breakfast buffet layout and rarely (if ever) asked for room numbers, so I assume it was for all guests.

Now before you get too excited about this "free" breakfast, let me tell you this is no Vegas mega-buffet layout.  A typical breakfast spread was fairly carb-heavy and light on the protein... lots of breads and pastries, yogurt, some deli-sliced meat and cheeses, fruit, juices, dry cereals, and hot beverages (coffee, tea).  But certainly good enough to get your day started and given the amount of walking one tends to do in these cities, I am guessing you work off those carbs pretty quickly.

So after breakfast, we headed back to St. Mark's Square with hopes of checking out the Doge's Palace or, in Italian, Palazzo Ducale.  It got kind of confusing sometimes when things were just in Italian, especially being a bit jetlagged I didn't immediately make the connection that those two were the same thing.  But no ugly American-ism here ala Amazing Race, with the oft-heard complaint of things/people not in English in a non-English speaking country.  Though on a sidenote, while we did run into an occasional misunderstanding or two (or three), we never had language issues.  Unlike most of us here in America, Italians in all the places we ventured were quite fluent in English.

Ok, back to the Doge's. We had about a 20-ish minute wait to get into the Palace for the do-it-yourself tour, which wasn't so bad (well, until we passed by in the afternoon and there was no line at all!).  But a totally impressive place and really hard to believe that folks lived and worked there, just staggering all the architectural and art that was done so long ago.  There were no pictures allowed of interior stuff, but here is the main courtyard:

I was a bit surprised that this also include a walk across the famous Bridge of Sighs. This was a passageway that connected the interrogation rooms of the Doge's Palace (much like the White House, the Palace was a residence and a place of governing business) with the prisons... given its name as prisoners would allegedly sigh as they viewed Venice from the small windows of the Bridge.  So that was pretty cool, until we walked over to see the outside of the Bridge and saw it mostly covered with advertisements.  There always some kind of renovation/restoration going on in Europe and these days it is pretty common that the scaffolding is covered by ads.  Money, money, money... but a bit distracting especially when it is by something so iconic.

The rest of the day was spent with a lot of walking around.  Of course, Venice is famous for its canals but the lack of any kind of "wheel" traffic really starts sinking in the longer you are there... and it's downright startling when you back to the 'real' world. I am glad we had the "happy medium" of Florence before heading to car/vespa/taxi crazy Rome.

The majority of our time was spent heading out to Dorsoduro "sesteiri" (district or neighborhood).  Of course, given the labyrinthine streets and alleys there were the occasional/unexpected detours, but no where is the adage "it's about the journey, not the destination" more appropriate than in Venice.

Italy Trip: Venice Day 1

We are back from our Italy trip.  As I go thru my photo collection, I am going to do my best to write down what we did.  I brought my laptop and really should have kept a ongoing diary, but alas that didn't quite happen, but I'll do my best here!

First off, if you are a do-it-yourself-er vacation-er, I highly recommend European Destinations.  We used them for our (well, my) first trip to Europe (London, Paris, Amsterdam) and again for this Italy trip (Venice, Florence, Rome) and there was absolutely not even one issue with our plane and train tickets or our hotel reservations.

Okay, onto our first stop...

Venice - Day 1

We arrived in Venice at 9am local time after a stop-over in Philadelphia.  Given the unique nature of this city, we heard it was best to arrive by water.  You can take a bus/taxi from the airport but it will only get you to the easternmost part of the city.  Coughing up at least 100 Euros (approximately $130 US at the time) for a private water taxi seemed a bit steep, so we opted to take the Alilaguna water "bus" for 12 Euros (about $16) per person.  We researched beforehand and planned to catch a route to the Rialto Bridge, the stop closest to our hotel.  However, that particular line wasn't running on Sunday.  Alas, I did have a Plan B and knew the northern stop at Fondamente Nove would work out... kinda.  We didn't have a great walking map from that point to our hotel, so we ended up a bit lost, which is not a whole lot of fun with 6 bags.  But getting lost, especially with luggage and map in hand, seemed to be the first rite of passage of Venice.  To make a long story short(er), we did ultimately stumble upon the Rialto Bridge and from there was able to use our planned walking map and found the hotel with relative ease.  I would say the whole boat drop-off to hotel trip took about an hour, so not so bad.

I pride myself on having a good sense of direction and while that basically stayed true (i.e. I only needed to walk that Rialto-to-Hotel route once with a map in hand), all of the Italian cities tested my radar.  While Venice has the reputation of getting lost, I dare say that I was more messed up in Rome.

Our hotel was a nice one, Hotel Santa Marina.  Once figured about, about a 5-minute walk to the Rialto Bridge and maybe 10-15 minutes to St. Mark's Square. Our room kind of had a subterranean feel to it, not a whole lot of natural light thanks to being positioned in a narrow alley, so no view to speak of (canal or otherwise), but as was the case in all of our destinations the room was merely for sleep and served the purpose quite well.  

After dropping off our bags, we walked around a bit and stumbled onto the iconic epicenter of Venice, St. Mark's Square.  I had been kind of following the signs towards it, but I was beginning to question my directions, so when I saw a square was coming up ahead I decided that would be a good place to re-evaluate where we were.  Alas, it was the biggie... and it is one of the biggest thrills of travel for me to come upon sights like this at the turn of a corner, the big Ta-Da! Voila! You're Here! Moment.  The Square was crazy busy, easily tens of thousands... but what a buzz!

At this point, things get a bit fuzzy in the memory department.  We did quite a bit more walking around, but in the San Marco area... ultimately stopping for a late lunch/early dinner (given that we had yet to really sleep since leaving home) for what would be our first of many thin-crust personal pizzas, birra (learned that Italian word for "beer" pretty quickly), and cappuccinos or espressos. 

My pictures show we definitely spent some time at the Rialto Bridge, another crazy busy epicenter of tourist humanity... but even as our minds and bodies were starting to fade after our long voyage here, it was clear we were here, we had made it to Venice!